Diary of Commissioner George Arthur French: July

Wednesday, 8th -- Left the Commission Camping ground at Dufferin, about 5 p.m., and moved out to the little lake, distance two miles. Several teams very baulky in moving off.

Thursday, 9th -- Found we could not transport all the stuff we had started with, returned a quantity of things into store, viz., 2 loads of syrup & c. When about to move off had to place Inspector R--- in arrest for using insubordinate language. Went over a mile past the bend of the Marais River, but had to turn back to the bend, as there was no other water in the vicinity. Soil excellent, but no wood from the little lake to the Marais.

Friday, 10th -- Taylor, the guide, does not appear to know much about the road. I cannot find out about water on north side of Line. Sent Taylor on. Marched at 2:30. Arrived opposite St. Armand’s about 6:30. Camped about 3000 yards north of the Boundary Line, but had to send the horses across to Pembina River, in U.S. territory, for water. Had to break a road for ourselves. Good land but no timber or water. An excellent well at St. Armand’s, another at Grant’s. Probably plenty of water could be obtained by digging wells, the above two are only 10 or 12 feet deep.

Saturday, 11th -- Marched at 9:30 parallel to the B. Com. road, which is U.S. territory hereabouts. Watered horses and cattle at a pond near the 20 mile post on the Boundary Line, opposite Grant’s. Bought two yokes for oxen and some collars, also some firewood, which we had to carry to our next camping ground. Struck B. Com. road at the 23 mile post, and followed it for 7 miles more. Camped beside a marshy pond which had dried up. Got a few buckets of water by digging in mud; land good; no wood or water.

Sunday, 12th -- There being no wood or water at last camping place marched at 5:15 a.m. for Pembina Mountain Depot, arriving there about 8:15. Good land, well timbered in vicinity of Mountain; tolerably good watering place at Depot. Heavy thunderstorm in afternoon, hailstones nearly as large as walnuts. In early part of the day large flights of grasshoppers were observed going east.

Monday, 13th -- Marched at 5 with oxen. Horses at 5:30. Teams of oxen in waggons at 6; broke a pole and reach en route. Several carts broke down, and a great deal of time lost. The country passed over very fine and park-like. Land good, a fair amount of timber scattered about. Rose to summit of Calf Mountain by several successive plateaus 15 to 20 feet above preceding ones. The Pembina Ridge, which is probably 300 feet above the prairie, slopes off to the north very gradually. Arrived at Calf Mountain about 4:30 and camped 1 ½ miles beyond.

Tuesday, 14th -- Marched at 7, reached the bank of the Pembina River about 9. Bank very steep; halted on river. Great delay in taking teams up the steep bank on east side, brought most of them up by ox teams hooked on ahead of the horses. Camped 7 miles east of river. Land of fair quality, numbers of boulders about. Wood on the Pembina River and in patches to Calf Mountain. River water good. Half-breeds and ox carts did not arrive till after midnight. Pembina River valley might afford a large tract for settlement. Fish in river. River 12 yards wide and 2 feet deep, not much current. Met Mr. Levallee and 5 half-breeds with 12 ponies and 6 carts containing presents for Indians, & c.

Wednesday, 15th -- Started at 7 a.m. Watered at Badger Creek (unmarked in Boundary Comm. map) and halted at Long River before noon. The half-breeds and oxen could not be got to start on time, and did not arrive until 3 or 4 in the afternoon, marching in the hottest part of the day. There appears to be no system amongst them, they are consequently not in camp yet, 11 p.m., and probably will not start in time to-morrow. Land of fair quality, water in Long and Badger Rivers good. Now camped on White Earth River (called Badger River in B. Com. map). Land not so good in this vicinity, rolling prairie, no trees except on rivers.

Thursday, 16th -- Left at 7 a.m. Camped at coule half way to Turtle Mountain Depot. No wood. Land not so good as hitherto, grass short and stunted. Arrived at the Depot at 8 p.m. Several more ox carts broke down.

Friday, 17th -- Left Depot 7 a.m. Delayed 1 1/2 hour at a mud hole. Overshot the proper watering place and consequently had a long march in the heat of the day; several horses played out. The oxen did not start with us, and I saw nothing of them all day. Left a few men behind with Macleod to repair carts. Boundary Commission road apparently changed, makes the road longer. Did not arrive at Turtle Head Creek until after 9 at night, and then found no grass. Used some of last years B. Com. hay, but horses did not care for it; did not pitch tents, men lying under waggons, & c. Land of fair quality, gravel shewing near surface. Good wood on Turtle Mountain. Water in large quantity, apparently White Water Lake, about 6 miles north of Mountain.

Saturday, 18th -- Started at 4 a.m. Morning hot, with strong, warm, wind. Horses very weak. Stopped at 10 a.m. at marsh, one mile south of road, and 14 miles from Turtle Head Creek. Several waggons lagging behind, owing to horses playing out. Prairie set on fire by carelessness on the part of either our men, or the half-breeds of Mr. Levallee’s party, hard to find out which. Marched at 2:30, and arrived at the first crossing of the Souris about 7. Morning march good land; timber all along slopes of Turtle Mountain. Afternoon, no wood in vicinity of line of march; gravelly subsoil. Two horses left on road, being unfit to travel. River about twenty yards wide, and 2 to 4 feet in depth, considerable current.

Sunday, 19th -- Camped at the Souris; splendid camping place, good water; gravelly bottom; wood and grass. Men thoroughly enjoyed their first day of rest. Bathing, washing clothes, & c. Macleod arrived in the afternoon, and all the oxen and carts were up by evening. Two horses had to be left on the road. The Boundary Commission people may find them and bring them in.

Monday, 20th -- Remained all day camped on the Souris, shoeing horses, repairing carts, transferring loads, &c. Held an investigation into the fact of one of our men (Pierre Lucas) leaving a horse behind. He stated that the horse could not move, and that he was pursued by five Indians whom he fired at. I do not believe his statement. Two horses died, one from being worked when sick.

Tuesday, 21st -- Marched at 5:30 a.m. Mid-day halt on North Antler Creek. Weather very hot and oppressive, several horses played out. Left an Act. Con. and five men with an ox-cart, to bring on those horses which could not keep up, (nine altogether). Camped at night on the south side of the North Antler Creek. Grass very poor, being dried up, or eaten up by grasshoppers. Soil poor, gravelly during the morning march, and sandy near the crossing of the Creek. Night very warm, which is quite unusual, the previous night the barometer falling to 44 although it had been up to 99 during same day.

Wednesday, 22nd ---Started at 6 a.m., weather not quite so warm, soil better. No wood or water during morning march or afternoon march till arrival at the second crossing of the Souris; good ford here, but approaches very steep. The hindermost waggons delayed several hours. Horses apparently doing better. I insisted on men dismounting and walking on foot every alternate hour, and propose continuing this to relieve the horses. River 10 yards wide, and from 1 to 2 feet deep, strong current flowing south.

Thursday, 23rd -- Started at 5:15. A, B and C Troops had 12 horses missing, kept them all back until they were found. A lot of oxen and cattle not to be found. Macleod as usual, was in the rear, and would not let any carts start till the cattle were found. Camped at the hill of the “Murdered Scout”, or Riviere des Lacs, and remained all day. Weather dreadfully hot. A number of officers and men suffering from diarrhoea. A horse died from rupture, over-driven. No wood or water en route, poor soil.

Friday, 24th -- Left at 4 a.m. Great rivalry between the Troops as to who should be off first. “A” Troop got off at 3:30, marched 16 miles to St. Peter’s Springs, found a dirty mud-hole, set to work and made several wells, placed a barrel in one and banked it round with stones for the benefit of Macleod, and any others who might come on. Watered nearly 300 hoses from this well. Soil generally poor, no wood or water of consequence. In afternoon marched for Roches Percees and passed it, camping on the banks of the Souris at Short Creek. Very good camping ground, wood, water and grass.

Saturday, 25th -- Camped on the Souris, and propose remaining a few days to rest horses and oxen, and break up train, taking with the main body merely what is absolutely necessary. Shurtliff came in about 11 a.m. and reported his arrival. He is camped 10 miles west, at Wood End Depot, on the Boundary Commission road, has been there for four days; has only 6 horses for me, having sent some to Fort Garry to draw out provisions for his own party. Chapman and Dr. Nevitt arrived, bringing letters; they left the iron hopples behind; left one horse on the road played out, not to be wondered at considering the thoughtless way they drove, starting late and driving fast.

Sunday, 26th -- Weather still very fine, thermometer fell to 32 last night, rising to 86 in the afternoon. Had regular church parade under the senior officer of each persuasion; I took the Church of England party myself, the number being in excess of all the other persuasions. Much pleased to hear many of the men singing hymns in the afternoon and evening; unfortunately, the language of a great many is by no means Scriptural.

Monday, 27th -- At work dividing stores for Edmonton, Fort Ellice, and Bow River. Have to superintend the whole work myself.

Tuesday, 28th -- Dividing stores and assorting them, drew out a number of the waggons for Fort Ellice, Edmonton and Bow River. Most of the officers and men, who had time, visited the Roche Percee. There is a good vein of coal here, we tried some in the forge and it burned well; it has, however, more the appearance of lignite than of true coal.

Wednesday, 29th -- Finished with the stores, paraded all the horses, and told off 55 of the weakest for Fort Ellice, under Jarvis. Took the horses of “A” Troop, and divided them amongst the others. Great delay in starting, did not leave until 6 p.m. Arrived at Wood End Depot about 9 p.m. I have now broken up the train and feel relieved. Jarvis takes 55 horses, 24 waggons, 55 carts, 62 oxen and 50 cows and calves to Edmonton and Ellice; also, 6 sick men and 12 half-breeds, Shurtliff’s party of 7, and about a dozen of his own men and quartermaster.

Thursday, 30th -- Remained all day at Wood End Depot to allow men to cook and bake 3 days rations, and secure a supply of wood for 3 days more, as it is doubtful whether we will be able to get wood for a week. Made a road across the river. I narrowly escaped a bad injury, my horse falling in one of the countless badger holes that are about, throwing me some distance over his head. Writing official reports and letters, sending off pay lists, & C., did not get to bed until after 12 and up again at 4 a.m. Coal exposed on river bank.

Friday, 31st -- Started at 5:30 a.m. Crossed Long River, had to make a road for ourselves and steer by compass, although Levallee took a very good course naturally. Course generally till mid-day halt 266 , or 4 south of the magnetic west by the prismatic compass. I took careful bearings all day and noted the distances by the odometer. Road very rough and uneven; I do not wonder at the trail in this direction being abandoned. Afternoon course 248 with a bend 290 for a mile after we struck Long River. The course was a little too much south, according to my calculation, but I did not interfere with the guide, who did very well indeed. Crossed Long River about 6 p.m. Sent out and found Boundary Road ½ mile west as I expected. Camped at crossing. Land poor; no wood; water in pools in Long River.