Diary of Commissioner George A. French: August

Saturday, 1st -- Started 5:45 a.m. Good road marching parallel to Long River and the coteau of the Missouri. Crossed the Long River about 14 miles on, and halted at crossing. A large number of ducks were shot along the river, I got about 25 myself. Crossed Long River again about 6 p.m., and camped at a marsh 2 miles beyond; excellent grass, but had to go 3/4 mile to the river for good water. On Monday my sketch of the Boundary Commission Road will give out, and I shall be completely in the hands of guides. Land poor, no wood at all. Fired a rocket for a man who was absent; although fired at a distance it frightened a number of the horses who stampeded as fast as their hopples would let them; but were stopped at once by the picquets and extra men turned out in anticipation of such an event.

Sunday, 2nd -- Camped all day; service 10:30 a.m. Had a long pow-wow with guides. Found that one of them was a regular imposter, by asking him the distances apart of certain places, knowing the true distances myself. This one says he speaks Blackfoot, I hope his Blackfoot will not be such an imposition.

Monday, 3rd -- Started at 5:30. Made a long march of 16 miles in morning; still between the coteau and Long River. Marched 10 miles further in the afternoon. Soil poor, herbage scanty, no wood. Those Troops that did not carry enough wood on their waggons are now beginning to feel the effects of their thoughtlessness.

Tuesday, 4th -- Tremendous thunderstorm between 12 and 1 a.m. Nearly all the tents blown down. In great anxiety lest the horses should stampede; fortunately, had ordered in most of them before the storm broke over us. Two lots of horses broke away, but were stopped by the picquets. Marched at 7 a.m. Ascended the coteau about 8:30 a.m., and halted at 9:30. As our road was to break off from the Boundary Commission Road at this point, sent Macleod and six carts to Wood Mountain by this road, for pemmican. We struck in a N.N.W. direction, making a road for ourselves over a very rough undulating country, descending the coteau, which we need not have ascended if the guides knew the country properly. Afternoon hot, which with bad roads played out several horses.

Wednesday, 5th -- Started at 6:30. Stopped when about a mile out to get wood, having found by accident a small clump on the face of the coteau. Two men lost last night, had a gun and rocket fired; they both, fortunately, turned up all right to-day, being pretty well frightened at the idea of being so easily lost on the prairie. Horses of “B” and “C” Troops lagging behind. Made up my mind to forego an afternoon march, as we had good water and grass on the Souris, and several waggons were behind. Soil poor, grass on plains parched up, no food for horses except in little valleys, or along the beds of rivers or coules.

Thursday, 6th -- Left at 6 a.m. Marching for Dirt Hill. Halted at 11 a.m. at coule, 11 ½ miles from starting point; got a good observation of the sun, and fixed the latitude at 49 55'40". In afternoon pushed on to Dirt Mountain, a gradual slope leading to foot of mountain and then a very abrupt ascent. I would estimate the altitude of the mountain to be 1,000 feet above the adjoining plain; very severe work on horses, especially the gun horses; land poor, pasture dried up. Prairie on fire in the distance, and fire seems to have run along the Souris for a considerable distance.

Friday, 7th -- -Horses so played out by the severe ascent of the Dirt Hill that I resolved to give them a day’s rest. Took observations for time, magnetic variation and latitude; found the variation to be 19 E., the latitude by sun 50 0'29". Observed for latitude by Pole Star at 3 a.m. on the 8th, and found it 49 59'8". These observation checked by those of 6th to 8th, allowing for course and distance run, would place the top of Dirt Hill in latitude 49 58'46". Dr. Kittson found the mean reading of the barometer for evening of the 6th, the whole of the 7th and morning of the 8th to be 27'404, and estimates the top of the Hill to be 2,900 feet above the sea level. Thermometer, max. 91 , min. 51.

Saturday, 8th -- Started at 5:30, descended Dirt Hill and made for gap in File Mountain, road hilly; halted when 12 miles out. Fortunately struck an old trail or the guide would have brought us altogether out of our way. When 7 or 8 miles from our noon halt, ascended a high hill, and to my delight saw the Old Wives Lake about 10 miles west. There being no water, and to-morrow being Sunday, determined to push on to the lakes. Struck a small lake which proved to be salt, had to push on another couple of miles. Camped on southern extremity of lake. Many of the waggons not in till 10 or 11 o’clock, and some did not arrive until next morning.

Sunday, 9th -- Enjoying our day of rest, men bathing, washing, & c. Had the horses well washed, which they appeared to approve of. The feed for the poor horses is very bad, and the water is slightly brackish, just enough so to purge some of the weak horses.

Monday, 10th -- The feed being poor resolved to push on a few miles for better feed if possible. Engaged in taking angles about the southern end of the lake to determine roughly its position. It is altogether larger than the one shown in Palliser’s map, and over 20 miles more east. Marched in afternoon to another Bay of Lake, about 6 miles west; feed little better. The saline water and bad feed is telling severely on the horses. Propose moving to-morrow to Old Wife’s Creek. About 25 miles off, met Macleod with 4,700 lbs. of pemmican and dried meat from Wood Mountain.

Tuesday, 11th -- Marched at 6 a.m., morning raw and cold. Could get no feed or water until noon, and then both were indifferent. In afternoon marching up the hill told severely on the unfortunate half-starved hoses. Camped in the evening on a creek, which flows into the Old Wife’s Creek. Feed still very bad; land the same as usual, hills and hollows, gravel close to surface; the grass parched and ground cracked and fissured from the dryness and heat of the atmosphere. A ten minutes hailstorm at Pembina Mountain is almost the total amount of moisture we have been subjected to.

Wednesday, 12th -- Started at 9:30 a.m., but had to wait until our advanced guard had cut down a hill to a reasonable slope. Halted near creek when about 5 miles out. The feed here looks much better, and I propose remaining till our horses pick up a little. A Sioux Indian came into camp this morning, and his party are to pay a formal visit to-morrow. It appears there has been a fight near Cypress Hills, the half-breeds say that the Blackfeet were urged on by the Yankee traders to attack them or steal their horses. The half-breeds and Sioux appear to have killed all the Blackfeet, and I should not be surprised to find that the Sioux were at the bottom of the whole affair.

Thursday, 13th -- Camped at Old Wives Creek. Our Indian friends arrived about 10 a.m. We had a formal pow-wow; they want to know why are we coming this way, and grunted out their satisfaction when I told them that the White Mother had heard that the American outlaws had killed some of her red children, and that she sent me, with these braves, to capture the men who did it. I impressed upon them the fact that we did not want their land, and I think civilization will be hard pushed for room when it requires the coteau of the Missouri, at least for agricultural purposes.

Friday, 14th -- Camped at same place. The interpreter tells me that this party of Sioux have given me the name of “Wachasta Sota”, which signifies, I believe, “Man with power”. Several Sioux about the camp got up a dance and song, the burden of which was, the Blackfeet would be crying tonight; the singer, being one of the party in the late fight, and having scalped a Blackfoot, he felt pretty good over it. Have heard that the Boundary Commission have oats to spare at Wood Mountain, and have despatched Macleod with 16 carts to get some.

Saturday, 15th -- At same place. A waggon and 11 carts with dried meat and pemmican passed to-day, had them searched for liquor, but found none; they belonged to a man named Ouillette; they report poor grass ahead. A camp of over 100 tents of half-breeds, Crees, Saulteaux, & c., four days march off, say halfway to Cypress Mountain. They are awaiting the buffalo. Shoeing and repacking waggons and carts.

Sunday, 16th -- A scout came in with our guide from Wood Mountain, he is a hard looking case, describes himself as a trapper, and says he trapped on the Bow River 3 years ago. Many think him a spy for the outlaws.

Monday, 17th -- Had arranged to march. Macleod’s carts did not arrive, but he himself came and brought Herchmer along.

Tuesday, 18th -- I find he has purchased 60,000 lbs. of oats from the Boundary Commission, and, although the price is high, I approved his purchase. Oats, at any price, is a Godsend to the poor horses. I purchased a fine horse from Herchmer. Macleod got a pony, and I got five from a half-breed. Every little helps.

Wednesday, 19th -- Marched about 9 to a pond about 2 miles north-west of our old camp; formed a depot there, leaving Constable Sutherland and 7 men (5 of whom were sick), also a half-breed, 26 sick and weak horses, and a dozen waggons. Marched 12 miles more in the afternoon, and camped on creek. The gun teams doing well. The Boundary Commission horse and the stallion drawing well.

Thursday, 20th -- Started at 6:30; sent back two waggons to the depot, having eaten up or issued the oats contained in them; took the wheels of one with us and packed the body in the other waggon, sending it back with two of the poorest horses. Made a good march of 21 ½ miles over undulating land. No wood; very little water; grass very poor; soil the same hungry description, which is apparently universal on the Coteau of the Missouri. Horses all doing well; no “playing out”. Made a long stretch in the afternoon, crossing Old Wife’s Creek at a good crossing place and camping there; slight current, sandy bottom, water only a few inches deep, but good; very little grass. About 9 p.m., the horses of “D” Troop stampeded, carrying away some of “B” Troop which were grazing near them. All were brought in and tied up. Hopples only impede horses; many of them can canter with hopples on. Have determined now to keep all horses tied up after dark, no matter how little chance they may have for feeding.

Friday, 21st -- Started at 5:30; little time to feed in the morning; stopped when three hours out, and gave the horses forty minutes feed, on a tolerable good patch of grass; arrived at crossing of creek about 11 a.m., and found a party of half-breeds there, with Pere Lestaing. Levallee’s brother was one of the party, and I engaged him as a guide back. Camped in the evening at a small marsh; very poor water, not much feed. Arranged in the evening for Macleod and Walker, with a party of 27 oxen, and as many men, to go for the oats to the Boundary Commission Depot at White Mud River. Although we made such a long march the horses came in well, nearly all together.

Saturday, 22nd -- For a change we had a shower of rain this morning, the first since leaving Dufferin, I may say. Macleod’s party delayed in their start until noon, owing to the carelessness of the man in charge of the cattle, who let them out early in the morning, and having put no one in charge of them they wandered off five or six miles. Marched in the afternoon and camped at a creek 7 ½ miles out; water rather brackish, grass short but apparently sweet. Overhauled a half-breed train going to Wood Mountain, but found no liquor. Tried to buy some horses (or ponies rather) but found the price too high, 150 to 200 dollars.

Sunday, 23rd -- Camped on branch of Old Wife’s Creek. Service at 10:30 as usual. Made several observations for time latitude, magnetic variation.

Monday, 24th -- Left at 6 a.m. Halted when 11 miles out, at a place where there was no grass, and only alkaline water; moved on three miles and halted at a good swamp, where the horses had a good meal of rushes, cut some and brought them along for feed at night. Arrived at Strong Current Creek at 8 p.m. This creek flows from the Cypress Hills to the Elbow of the Saskatchewan; banks are very steep; land improving in appearance, the grass is not quite so parched looking. The Cypress Hills in view this p.m. towards S.W.

Tuesday, 25th -- Left at 7:30 a.m. Having to cut down the banks somewhat and make a crossing. Road strikes north here to avoid creeks. We are travelling on the Plain Hunters’ trail that we crossed yesterday. Arrived about noon at a valley in the Cypress Hills, where the Plain Hunters and the Indians have been encamped. Grass not very good, water bad and difficult access for horses.

Wednesday, 26th -- Camped at same place. Sent out to search for better water and grass. The guide Morrin shot a cabri, the first game, excepting ducks and prairie chickens, since leaving Dufferin. Plenty of tracts of buffalo, but they have been driven away from here lately. Red cedar reported on hills in vicinity.

Thursday, 27th -- Had a little rain in the morning, went out and looked up a place for to camp, and where the grass and water was better than here. Most of the little ponds and lakes hereabouts are salt, but have found out a couple of swamps where the water is all right. Have managed to shoe 22 of the oxen, they all require it now. Sent back a scout to meet Macleod’s party, and shew them our crossing at the Strong Current Creek.

Friday, 28th -- Had some rain in the morning, just enough to make the ground sticky. Weather warm in the afternoon. Had intended moving a few miles to change pasture ground for the horses, but prefer to wait until to-morrow, as the road would be too heavy and there would be no actual necessity for a move.

Saturday, 29th -- Have fired a rocket the past few nights as a signal in case Macleod’s party are within 30 miles or so, but there has been no response as yet. Moved this afternoon about four miles west. The ducks, geese and cabri seem to be pretty numerous hereabouts. Sent some ox carts off for wood to hills opposite; they did not return till near 11 p.m.

Sunday, 30th -- The horses were out to graze this morning at daybreak, but they were only out a quarter of an hour, when the bulk of them stampeded from some unknown cause. Some say a snake in the grass where they were feeding. Fortunately they were not able to go very far as they were either hoppled or knee-haltered. Some broke their fastenings, however, and a large proportion of them managed to get off fully two miles before they were stopped. When brought in and mustered, I found all present fortunately.

Monday, 31st -- Walker arrived and reported Macleod 12 miles back. Macleod arrived. We started about 2:30 p.m. Sent Chapman back with the guide with letters, & c. Also a French speaking sub-constable to the Cripple Camp, the one left there being of doubtful character apparently. Made about 9 miles, camped at a good sized lake.